Well, another week has sped by. The 9 to 5 has taken more of my time than usual, and it looks like the trend will continue for at least another month, with several projects due between now and December 1st. I am not happy as this has taken away from my time to be here on my blog and twitter, and limits the time I can put items up in my web stores. It also limits my time for shopping as it's taking weekend time also. But, it's not forever. I can bear with it till the projects are completed.
I was taking some photographs of an item I already have up in my store, I do this occassionally just to freshen things up (and get rid of photos I thought were good at the time, but are really not the best). I've found my ability to take a better photograph has gotten better with time and experience. The item is a Blenko glass bowl and not really an easy item to photograph due to the shape and color. I thought since I was going to freshen things up I would go back and change the description a little bit, one thing lead to another, and I decided to check my research.
As I've said before I like to reasearch my items and find out all I possibly can about them. I also said that the information available can change as more details become available. Here is the original text for the item on http://www.trocadero.com/ for this item:
"Blenko Ruffled bowl #3744 with undulating rim in Sea Green glass. Hand Blown, rough pontil. 11 inches in diameter, 5 1/2 inches tall. Signed BLENKO on bottom. Excellent condition, no chips, cracks or repairs. Circa 1960."
Now while most of the description is still accurate as it is Blenko and it is signed, and the dimensions are accurate. I have more information available now! The signature is a sandblasted signature that was developed by Wayne Husted and only used from 1959 and was phased out in 1961. The color Sea Green was only used in 1960 and 1961 during the period this signature was used. The shape number is not 3744, as this was for a 7 inch diamter ruffled bowl, this piece is shape 3716, an 11 inch diameter bowl, created by Wayne Husted. The piece is shown in the 1960 catalogue for Blenko, so the piece is most likely of 1960 vintage.
The point of this entry is to make you aware that as a collector, it can be very interesting to revisit and re-research an item to add to what you may already know, or corroborate the information you have! I will be changing the information (and photos) on www.trocadero.com/antiquesonbardwell/ to reflect the new information on this piece. Come visit and check it out!
Good Night for now!
Sunday, November 8, 2009
Sunday, November 1, 2009
Just a quick update
Well, had to work a few hours yesterday to support the A/R group through the month end processes for the 9 to 5. Then had to attempt to get some final outdoor chores done before it start to be too cold to do it, rain hampered those chores but it got partially done.
Today is for me and my antiques, I am heading out to go treasure hunting for more items for the shop, and more items to discuss on this blog. Let's see what I can find!
I am going to attempt to tweet my way through the day, with short updates. Follow me at highnotech at http://www.twitter.com/
Have a good day and I will add some new entries later today, once I arrive back home.
Today is for me and my antiques, I am heading out to go treasure hunting for more items for the shop, and more items to discuss on this blog. Let's see what I can find!
I am going to attempt to tweet my way through the day, with short updates. Follow me at highnotech at http://www.twitter.com/
Have a good day and I will add some new entries later today, once I arrive back home.
Saturday, October 31, 2009
Another short entry
Been another looooong week at the 9 to 5, mentally exhausting really, so again a lack of posts this past week. I won't bore you with details or too many complaints, but let's just say: working there sucks at the moment.
Now on to what this blog is really about, learning about antiques and collectibles, it's time to show you another item and briefly discuss. Today it's actually about a line of items from a well known company, Pfaltzgraf, The Muggsy line.
Now on to what this blog is really about, learning about antiques and collectibles, it's time to show you another item and briefly discuss. Today it's actually about a line of items from a well known company, Pfaltzgraf, The Muggsy line.
Set of six Muggsy Mugs by Pfaltzgraf
The "Muggsy" line of giftware was introduced in the late 1940's and was extremely popular. This line of comic characters contained mugs, cookie jars, bottle stoppers and ashtrays, etc. All the pieces were given names, and the line continued in production until 1960. The earlier production, like those in the photo above, had protruding and painted features. Later production had painted features on a flat surface. The original six character mugs, all six of which are shown above, were named Handsome Herman, Pickled Pete, Flirty Gerty, Cockeyed Charlie, Sleepy Sam and Jerry the Jerk. There soon followed other pieces such as a cookie jar (Derby Dan), a what-not jar (Handy Harry), a clothes sprinkler (Myrtle the Sprinkler), and many other pieces. The pieces were all designed by a gentleman named Norman Jessop.
Marks on bottom of mugs
These are a fun collectible, not common but not exceedingly rare either, but always interesting. Some pieces are more difficullt to find than others, Myrtle the Sprinkler being one of the more difficult (I've only seen her once for sale). This line is pretty extensive, and a complete collection would make quite a display.
Pfaltzgraf itself was started in the 1800's in Pennsylvania making redware, then stoneware crocks and jugs. In the 1920's they made yellow ware and spongeware. 1930's and 1940's they produced stoneware for the kitchen. The first line of dinnerware did not appear until the 1950's. This line called Gourmet Royale, was simular to lines made by other companies at that time (McCoy, Hull etc.) a high-gloss, solid color ware accented by a patchy white rim.
Pfaltzgraf is very collectible, and the lines are extensive, making collecting this ware a true treasure hunt, with unusual pieces popping up now and then. Most of us know and recognize the dinnerware lines of Heritage and Folk Art, which seem to alway be available somewhere, flea markets, tag sales and our mothers cupboards.
Got more to say, but just got a call from the 9 to 5, looks like another Saturday fixing an issue and it's month end, so I'll continue this later!
So start something new today, and start a collection! Have a good day and I'll see you later!
Sunday, October 25, 2009
Sundays and more Dishes
Just thought you'd like to know another interesting fact I found when researching the carafe set. This firm discovered the secret to a striking Ox Blood glaze, a glaze found on many old pieces of Chinese pottery.
The company used no less than 19 different backstamps for it's various lines, the GMcB in an oval being the first, and their most famous line of dinnerware was Franciscanware (Apple and Desert Rose patterns being most well known).
See you find out the most interesting things when you check stuff out!
I've said I love dishes and I do, so much so I've been caught turning over the plates in restaurants to see who the maker of the dishes is (just do it before you're served, much easier that way). If you're caught just say you like the pattern and wanted to see if you could purchase it, the restaurant will like the compliment.
I'll pick out something else for tomorrow night, as I'm headed for bed, I have an early meeting at the 9 to 5 tomorrow and need to be alert!
See you tomorrow and for now Good Night!
The company used no less than 19 different backstamps for it's various lines, the GMcB in an oval being the first, and their most famous line of dinnerware was Franciscanware (Apple and Desert Rose patterns being most well known).
See you find out the most interesting things when you check stuff out!
I've said I love dishes and I do, so much so I've been caught turning over the plates in restaurants to see who the maker of the dishes is (just do it before you're served, much easier that way). If you're caught just say you like the pattern and wanted to see if you could purchase it, the restaurant will like the compliment.
I'll pick out something else for tomorrow night, as I'm headed for bed, I have an early meeting at the 9 to 5 tomorrow and need to be alert!
See you tomorrow and for now Good Night!
Saturday, October 24, 2009
Saturday and Dishes
Saturday. Cloudy and raining, stayed in today to catch up on computer maintenance chores, cleaning, backups and upgrades. Went shopping late, groceries, nothing exciting there. Got in to the store, and they had buckets in every aisle, some, like the main aisle had 10 or 15, with caution signs leading around them, guess the roof has sprung a few leaks! Problem is the store can't be more than 6 years old! Winter will be interesting in bad weather, might need the umbrella indoors, so much for bad luck.
Well on to a more interesting subject - Dishes! Did I mention I love dishes? Granted, not really fancy stuff, but practical and useful. Just the kind of thing that is fun to collect, something you can actually use.
Dishes, actually china and tableware, are an interesting collectible as there is such an array and abundance of them, yet some sets take years to collect every item available in a pattern. Many companies made them, from inexpensive everyday items, to the "good" china; you know the ones your Mother or Grandmother only brought out on the Holidays.
Well today I have a the following to present to you, in it's time it would have been considered everyday stuff, but now you'd use it only occasionally. Here's a picture.
Well on to a more interesting subject - Dishes! Did I mention I love dishes? Granted, not really fancy stuff, but practical and useful. Just the kind of thing that is fun to collect, something you can actually use.
Dishes, actually china and tableware, are an interesting collectible as there is such an array and abundance of them, yet some sets take years to collect every item available in a pattern. Many companies made them, from inexpensive everyday items, to the "good" china; you know the ones your Mother or Grandmother only brought out on the Holidays.
Well today I have a the following to present to you, in it's time it would have been considered everyday stuff, but now you'd use it only occasionally. Here's a picture.
Yep, It's a carafe set with 4 cups!
A first glance I was thinking, well I was thinking COOL! - I like this stuff, very modern and stylish and in a great color to boot! Possibly Forties or Fifties design, with ceramic, metal and wood elements, very chic, and did I say, modern. The handle on the Carafe is wood attached to the neck with a black metal band, between the band and the metal is a rubber gasket. The handles on the cups are also metal an wood. Fiesta? Bauer? Vernon? Could it be one of those?
Well, some of the pieces are marked and I thought I recognized it, but wasn't positive, so off to do the other thing I love - RESEARCH!
There are two pieces that are marked, the carafe and one cup. Here is a photo of the mark on the carafe:
I know, it's a bit fuzzy, but here's what is says: GMcB in an oval/made in/USA
The GMcB stands for the Gladding-McBean company, they are probably most well known for their FRANCISCAN line of dinnerware, but that was made a few years after this was. This is their earliest mark used from 1934 till 1938, this was definitely earlier than Franciscanware. This is an EL PATIO Carafe set, the first dinnerware line this company designed and produced to compete with Bauer. It was produced in eight colors, this one is Golden Glow, and the pattern was designed by Mary K. Grant.
Now, did I mention modern! This design is from 1934 and still looks fresh today, that's good design! Want to see more good design, check out the following picture.
The handles on the cups are removeable for cleaning! They just slide down to remove, then you can slip the cup back in for service. It stuff like this that satisfies the gadget geek in me!
Gladding-McBean was the first company to market "starter sets". You know, four place settings in a single box, the way most of us buy china and tableware today! See what research turns up, and you thought dishes would be boring! I'm still finding more information, which I'll pass on to you later.
Well that's it for right now, 'nuff educatin' for tonight! Good Night!
Thursday, October 22, 2009
Four days past
Well, here it is the 22nd, four days from my last post. The 9 to 5 keeps me too busy lately, and I'm questioning whether I should have started this blog because of it.
I barely have time to keep on top of my online store as it is now, but I do though because I love it, and I love antiques and collectibles. That is why I started this blog to talk about antiques and collectibles and try to get others interested also.
Antiques are not only fun, they are a means to establishing links to our past, and preserving it for the future. I know the younger generations (not that I'm old (yet), middle age really) don't currently view antiques as a hobby, but neither did I when I was the same age, but I learned there was some interesting stuff out there just waiting to be discovered. And discover it I did!
So even though right now time is limited, and I am doing this before I go get some rest because tomorrow is another big (9 to 5) work day, I will try to keep this blog going and present another new item tomorrow night.
So Good Night, for now.
I barely have time to keep on top of my online store as it is now, but I do though because I love it, and I love antiques and collectibles. That is why I started this blog to talk about antiques and collectibles and try to get others interested also.
Antiques are not only fun, they are a means to establishing links to our past, and preserving it for the future. I know the younger generations (not that I'm old (yet), middle age really) don't currently view antiques as a hobby, but neither did I when I was the same age, but I learned there was some interesting stuff out there just waiting to be discovered. And discover it I did!
So even though right now time is limited, and I am doing this before I go get some rest because tomorrow is another big (9 to 5) work day, I will try to keep this blog going and present another new item tomorrow night.
So Good Night, for now.
Sunday, October 18, 2009
Build a reference collection
Last night I mentioned that I looked in several reference books to find out all I could about the doll in the discussion. Building a reference library is probably one of the best things you can do for yourself once you've selected a category of collectible. There are hundreds of books available on almost every subject, some are better than others, but this is generally a matter open to lots of discussion itself! Some people will recommend a particular book, others something else, check them all out and choose those you find easiest to use for yourself.
In researching the doll I used the following books, and these are just the start of a good reference collection, there are many more available for each specific category of doll, my reference library tends to be more general in scope:
Blue Book of Dolls/Values, author Jan Foulke, Hobby House Press, this comes out every year or so and is considered by many to be the definitive book on doll values. It is only a guide as some dolls will fall below the listed value and an exceptional doll above the listed value. I keep several years handy, as all dolls are not referenced in each book.
The Main Street Dictionary of Doll Marks, author Jean Bach, Main Street Press, is well organized, and contains many good mark facsimiles. I like the appendices in this book, as they cross reference mold numbers.
The Collector's Encyclopedia of Dolls Volumes I and II, authors Dorothy, Elizabeth and Evelyn Coleman, Crown Publishers. I don't know if this one is still in print; my volume I copy is dated 1968 and volume II is 1986. These are large volumes, and cover a lot of territory, some a bit obscure, but lots of good stuff here. Well worth finding a copy.
German Dolls Identification and Values, author Patricia Smith, Collectore Books, not sure if this is still in print either my copy is 1985. Good Photos.
The ABC's of Doll Collecting, author John C. Schweitzer, Sterling Publishing, my copy is from 1981 so again it may be out of print. Good reference for beginning collectors.
The Collectors Book of Dolls' Clothes, authors The Colemans, Crown Publishers, good reference for assistance in determining the originality of doll clothes, or their appropriateness for a particular doll. This too may be out of print, but well worth finding.
Again there are many books out there that cover these same subjects so look them over and select one or two of your liking, read them and keep them handy. Researching a newly acquired item is half the fun!
I will see you again tomorrow, till then Good Night!
In researching the doll I used the following books, and these are just the start of a good reference collection, there are many more available for each specific category of doll, my reference library tends to be more general in scope:
Blue Book of Dolls/Values, author Jan Foulke, Hobby House Press, this comes out every year or so and is considered by many to be the definitive book on doll values. It is only a guide as some dolls will fall below the listed value and an exceptional doll above the listed value. I keep several years handy, as all dolls are not referenced in each book.
The Main Street Dictionary of Doll Marks, author Jean Bach, Main Street Press, is well organized, and contains many good mark facsimiles. I like the appendices in this book, as they cross reference mold numbers.
The Collector's Encyclopedia of Dolls Volumes I and II, authors Dorothy, Elizabeth and Evelyn Coleman, Crown Publishers. I don't know if this one is still in print; my volume I copy is dated 1968 and volume II is 1986. These are large volumes, and cover a lot of territory, some a bit obscure, but lots of good stuff here. Well worth finding a copy.
German Dolls Identification and Values, author Patricia Smith, Collectore Books, not sure if this is still in print either my copy is 1985. Good Photos.
The ABC's of Doll Collecting, author John C. Schweitzer, Sterling Publishing, my copy is from 1981 so again it may be out of print. Good reference for beginning collectors.
The Collectors Book of Dolls' Clothes, authors The Colemans, Crown Publishers, good reference for assistance in determining the originality of doll clothes, or their appropriateness for a particular doll. This too may be out of print, but well worth finding.
Again there are many books out there that cover these same subjects so look them over and select one or two of your liking, read them and keep them handy. Researching a newly acquired item is half the fun!
I will see you again tomorrow, till then Good Night!
Saturday, October 17, 2009
Fates Selection
Well, I'm back (just as I promised) and with a specific item to cover. I couldn't decide what category to cover so I placed five items in a hat, well, cards with the item name on them, otherwise I would have needed a very large hat! I mixed the cards up and let fate pick the item, a doll! and you thought we had covered everything, guess the fates thought we needed more!
So I guess we'll cover this particular composition doll tonight. Composition dolls in general form a highly collectible and affordable area in doll collecting. I got this doll at an auction in a collection of dolls. She stands 15 inches tall, and is dressed in an original cotton sundress with matching bonnet, underslip, socks and shoes. Composition dolls of this type were popular from about the 1910's to the 1950's.
Please note: you can enlarge the photos by merely clicking on them, if you want to get a better look at them.
As you can see in the photo to the left; the head, arms and legs are composition and she has a cloth body. The head style is called a shoulder head because the head and shoulders of the doll is molded in one piece. The arms are bent at the elbow and the legs are straight. The arms and legs are sewn and glued to the body. The hip joints are simply sewn seams. This doll cannot stand on it's own and would either sit or be placed in a doll stand for display.
The eyes, lashes, eyebrows and lips are all painted on as are the rosy dimples on her legs and elbows.
The photo on the left shows a closer image of the face in a side view to also show how the hair is molded as part of the head with color and detail added with fine painting. You may notice a what appears to be a small crack or split next to the eye in the photo on the left, nope it's not, it is a wayward painted eyelash!
Now you may be wondering who this little charmer is, for that we need to check for markings. There are none on the cloth body, nor does she have any hang tags so we will need to check the back of the head!
The mark on the head reads EFFANBEE PATSY in an oval on the back of the head. This identifies the maker: EFFANBEE and the name of the doll: PATSY. In doing some research on this doll in several reference books, I found that this particular style of Patsy doll, with a cloth body and composition shoulder head, was made starting around 1925, with the later Patsy dolls, with all composition bodies, being made around 1928 and after. In fact there is a whole family of Patsy dolls with Wee Patsy, Patsy Jr., Patsy Baby, Patsy Kins, Patsy Ann, Patsy Joan and the list goes on. Patsy can be a whole collection of composition dolls all by itself.
This doll has no crazing on the arms, legs or face. Crazing is fine spider web like cracks in the finish of composition dolls that normally occurs with age. The doll oes show some signs of wear and has a few spots with paint loss on her chin and back of her head. She also is missing a couple of toes on one foot, but overall the doll is in very good condition. The following photos show these areas.
This style of Patsy is listed in the 15th Blue Book of Dolls and Values (Jan Foulke, Hobby House Press) at $350 - $400, which is a reasonable price for beginning doll collectors.
That's it for tonight! I hope you enjoyed learning a little about one type of composition doll as much as I enjoyed bringing her to you! I will be bring more items your way as this blog progresses, so if you have a particular area of interest please let me know as I may also learn something new in the process.
Good night for now!
So I guess we'll cover this particular composition doll tonight. Composition dolls in general form a highly collectible and affordable area in doll collecting. I got this doll at an auction in a collection of dolls. She stands 15 inches tall, and is dressed in an original cotton sundress with matching bonnet, underslip, socks and shoes. Composition dolls of this type were popular from about the 1910's to the 1950's.
Please note: you can enlarge the photos by merely clicking on them, if you want to get a better look at them.
As you can see in the photo to the left; the head, arms and legs are composition and she has a cloth body. The head style is called a shoulder head because the head and shoulders of the doll is molded in one piece. The arms are bent at the elbow and the legs are straight. The arms and legs are sewn and glued to the body. The hip joints are simply sewn seams. This doll cannot stand on it's own and would either sit or be placed in a doll stand for display.
The eyes, lashes, eyebrows and lips are all painted on as are the rosy dimples on her legs and elbows.
The photo on the left shows a closer image of the face in a side view to also show how the hair is molded as part of the head with color and detail added with fine painting. You may notice a what appears to be a small crack or split next to the eye in the photo on the left, nope it's not, it is a wayward painted eyelash!
Now you may be wondering who this little charmer is, for that we need to check for markings. There are none on the cloth body, nor does she have any hang tags so we will need to check the back of the head!
The mark on the head reads EFFANBEE PATSY in an oval on the back of the head. This identifies the maker: EFFANBEE and the name of the doll: PATSY. In doing some research on this doll in several reference books, I found that this particular style of Patsy doll, with a cloth body and composition shoulder head, was made starting around 1925, with the later Patsy dolls, with all composition bodies, being made around 1928 and after. In fact there is a whole family of Patsy dolls with Wee Patsy, Patsy Jr., Patsy Baby, Patsy Kins, Patsy Ann, Patsy Joan and the list goes on. Patsy can be a whole collection of composition dolls all by itself.This doll has no crazing on the arms, legs or face. Crazing is fine spider web like cracks in the finish of composition dolls that normally occurs with age. The doll oes show some signs of wear and has a few spots with paint loss on her chin and back of her head. She also is missing a couple of toes on one foot, but overall the doll is in very good condition. The following photos show these areas.
This style of Patsy is listed in the 15th Blue Book of Dolls and Values (Jan Foulke, Hobby House Press) at $350 - $400, which is a reasonable price for beginning doll collectors.
That's it for tonight! I hope you enjoyed learning a little about one type of composition doll as much as I enjoyed bringing her to you! I will be bring more items your way as this blog progresses, so if you have a particular area of interest please let me know as I may also learn something new in the process.
Good night for now!
Friday, October 16, 2009
A week without blogging is like...
A week without blogging is like an unaswered question, and is not a good thing if you want people to follow you and listen to what you have to say. My 9 to 5 job has kept me extremely busy this week with stuff to do, in fact I just completed the last thing I needed to do today for them.
I was really hoping to be more into the Antiques this week but no such luck.
Now I've always had longer days than some people as I am in IT and have support responsibilities that require it, as well as weekends, vacations (and shows I'm set up at) that get interrupted as I am on call 24/7, so you wouldn't think this is unusual. But since the economic downturn and layoffs and downsizing, it has gotten a bit worse, as there are fewer of us to go around. I thought, that when the company was sold and three companies became one, it would lighten the load a bit, but that didn't happen. Alas and woe is me!
Well, I promise starting tonight to do a better job of keeping the loop going, and at least making an entry every day.
As for the antiques part of the blog, I will cover a new item tomorrow - not sure what it will be at the moment as I have so many categories to choose from and I want to cover everything I love, so it's hard to pick a favorite.
Please bear with me, and I will see you tomorrow (I promise) but for now Good Night!
I was really hoping to be more into the Antiques this week but no such luck.
Now I've always had longer days than some people as I am in IT and have support responsibilities that require it, as well as weekends, vacations (and shows I'm set up at) that get interrupted as I am on call 24/7, so you wouldn't think this is unusual. But since the economic downturn and layoffs and downsizing, it has gotten a bit worse, as there are fewer of us to go around. I thought, that when the company was sold and three companies became one, it would lighten the load a bit, but that didn't happen. Alas and woe is me!
Well, I promise starting tonight to do a better job of keeping the loop going, and at least making an entry every day.
As for the antiques part of the blog, I will cover a new item tomorrow - not sure what it will be at the moment as I have so many categories to choose from and I want to cover everything I love, so it's hard to pick a favorite.
Please bear with me, and I will see you tomorrow (I promise) but for now Good Night!
Monday, October 12, 2009
One final note on Dolls.....
The question arose as to whether one should consider a doll with damage such as a hairline crack, or fingers missing. The answer is yes, not all dolls are perfect and some are rare enough to warrant buying with damage. Doll museums will buy a rare doll with damage as it may be the only way to have an example of a particular doll, making repairs only as needed to make the doll presentable to the public.
Also damage varies from minor to severe,some repairable and some not, but as long as it reflected in the cost, and is at a level you are willing to accept, you can feel confident in buying and adding to your collection.
Repairs to dolls are not inexpensive, so you must really attempt to buy the best doll you can for your money, and if you wish, making only the repairs that are necessary to bring the doll to a level acceptable to you, and keep as much of the authenticity of the original doll as possible.
I hope I have helped to answer this question. I will be moving on to a new category tomorrow, unless another question arises about dolls, not sure what it will be yet, but it may be something that sparks your imagination.
For now, Good Night!
Also damage varies from minor to severe,some repairable and some not, but as long as it reflected in the cost, and is at a level you are willing to accept, you can feel confident in buying and adding to your collection.
Repairs to dolls are not inexpensive, so you must really attempt to buy the best doll you can for your money, and if you wish, making only the repairs that are necessary to bring the doll to a level acceptable to you, and keep as much of the authenticity of the original doll as possible.
I hope I have helped to answer this question. I will be moving on to a new category tomorrow, unless another question arises about dolls, not sure what it will be yet, but it may be something that sparks your imagination.
For now, Good Night!
Sunday, October 11, 2009
A difficult segue....
Ok, it's been a couple of days since my last post. My 9 to 5 job has kept me busier than usual, with a few very long days, and a couple extra.
I was trying to come up with a way to segue from the walkthrough but I can't come up with anything clever, so let's just continue a bit on dolls.
I've found over the years that it's best to go to a doll show with a particular doll in mind for purchase, several in mind actually. Carry a list of dolls you've seen that you would like to have in your collection, write down the mold number, maker, doll type, height (if it's a limiting factor) and the price range for the doll. Don't make the list too long, say, a half-dozen of so to start, add to the list when one is removed, or if your taste/budget changes.
When you first start out, go to doll shows (and antique shows) and do not be afraid to talk to the dealers, even if you are not buying! I found out my best information from them, and many helpful hints, like the tools of the trade. Dealers love talking about their stuff, and doll dealers love their dolls.
I've found that one should only ask one or two questions then let the dealer tend to business, so you don't monopolize their time. I know several dealers who will talk for hours (yes I'm guilty here) if you let them, but don't let them, there's lots to see and you won't want to miss anything either. Many doll shows also cover bears and toys, and who knows you may find them more interesting than the dolls you came to see!
If you do see a doll you'd like to look at don't hesitate to ask the dealer if you can inspect the doll, cause how else are you going to learn?
If you've been following the blog, and would like to know more about something in particular that I've covered, or you would like me to cover, regarding antiques, please ask. Also in the coming weeks I will be adding photos into the blog to illustrate things we're discussing (or have discussed), I think you'll find that a bit more helpful in some areas, like manufacturers marks.
For now, Good Night!
I was trying to come up with a way to segue from the walkthrough but I can't come up with anything clever, so let's just continue a bit on dolls.
I've found over the years that it's best to go to a doll show with a particular doll in mind for purchase, several in mind actually. Carry a list of dolls you've seen that you would like to have in your collection, write down the mold number, maker, doll type, height (if it's a limiting factor) and the price range for the doll. Don't make the list too long, say, a half-dozen of so to start, add to the list when one is removed, or if your taste/budget changes.
When you first start out, go to doll shows (and antique shows) and do not be afraid to talk to the dealers, even if you are not buying! I found out my best information from them, and many helpful hints, like the tools of the trade. Dealers love talking about their stuff, and doll dealers love their dolls.
I've found that one should only ask one or two questions then let the dealer tend to business, so you don't monopolize their time. I know several dealers who will talk for hours (yes I'm guilty here) if you let them, but don't let them, there's lots to see and you won't want to miss anything either. Many doll shows also cover bears and toys, and who knows you may find them more interesting than the dolls you came to see!
If you do see a doll you'd like to look at don't hesitate to ask the dealer if you can inspect the doll, cause how else are you going to learn?
If you've been following the blog, and would like to know more about something in particular that I've covered, or you would like me to cover, regarding antiques, please ask. Also in the coming weeks I will be adding photos into the blog to illustrate things we're discussing (or have discussed), I think you'll find that a bit more helpful in some areas, like manufacturers marks.
For now, Good Night!
Thursday, October 8, 2009
Just got off the 9 to 5, and I'm beat, so no long entry tonight.
Just wanted to say I reread my last posting and forgot to mention that while you have the doll laying flat and the wig is off, now is the time to measure the height of the doll. Yes, I realize the dealer probably has the height already on the tag, but I like to measure anyway. Starting at the top of head measure all the way down to the toes, this is the height of the doll.
I hope everyone had a good day, but for now have a Good Night!
Just wanted to say I reread my last posting and forgot to mention that while you have the doll laying flat and the wig is off, now is the time to measure the height of the doll. Yes, I realize the dealer probably has the height already on the tag, but I like to measure anyway. Starting at the top of head measure all the way down to the toes, this is the height of the doll.
I hope everyone had a good day, but for now have a Good Night!
Tuesday, October 6, 2009
An Inspection Walk Through
Selecting a doll to buy is a simple process once you've done your homework! The first thing I suggest is to buy a doll price guide, there are several very good ones on the market, perhaps the most well known is "The Blue Book" by Jan Foulke, but there are others. Peruse them all and select the one that suits you best.
The next step is read through the book to try to determine where you want to start collecting. You may find bisque dolls appeal to you, or hard plastic, or the dolls you remember from your childhood. You can (and should) also determine the price range of your first doll from reading the books. My advice is to start slowly, don't jump into your first purchase without some idea of where you want to start. Go to a few dolls shows (leave the checkbook at home the first time or two) to get a feel for what is available from the dealers in your area. Do not be afraid to ask questions of the dealers, they are there to assist you, not just sell dolls, remember most started as newbie collectors at some point.
My first outing at a doll show was great! The dealers were (and are) very friendly and helpful. I was upfront about the fact that I was new to dolls and still learning, but not quite ready to purchase my first doll. I was inquiring about a particular child doll in the booth of one dealer, and after answering my initial questions about the doll, asked me if I would like to see her, and I quote "You won't learn unless you undress and examine her!". Words of wisdom I remember to this day! She then proceeded to take the doll off the stand to show me the doll.
Now lets walk through what you should do when inspecting a bisque doll. The first thing is to ask questions of the dealer about the doll you've got your eye on and request permission to examine the doll. They know you will need to throughly examine her, so they won't be surprised, but they will be glad you asked. Allow the dealer to take the doll down from the display for you if there are several dolls grouped together, you don't want to knock one over. When the dealer hands you the doll, be confident and grasp the doll securely like you would an infant. I like to tell the dealer that "I have her" once I have a good grip (I do the same with glassware) and she can release her grip, this assures one the doll won't fall.
The next step is to remove the doll stand if the dealer has not already done so. It is a simple process of gently squeezing the top ring and separating it from the base with a sliding motion. Be sure to keep a firm grip on the doll while doing this. Ask the dealer to show you if you are unsure, or if you'd like an extra pair of hands.
I usually look for a flat place to lay the doll down, but sometimes there isn't room for that if the dealer has a lot of dolls and a small booth. Once you have the doll secured, the first thing you should is give the doll an overall look to see if the clothes appear to be old or new, and appropriate for this doll. If the doll has a hat remove this first and examine the wig, is the wig old or new, is it appropriate for this doll, is it worn?
The next step will be to see if the wig is attached or loose, this is an important step. If the wig is firmly attached to the head, stop here, ask the dealer if he/she can remove the wig. If the wig cannot be removed from the head, I thank the dealer for their time, and put the doll back. I will not buy a doll where the wig cannot be removed, as it can be covering a crack (learned a hard lesson on this one). There are ways to remove a wig but most dealers will not allow that while on the show floor, to time consuming.
If the wig is removable, then remove it from the head. Check the back of the head and neck for any identifying marks and size numbers. Check around the rim of the head for cracks and hairlines (small, thin tight cracks), check how the eyes are set inside the head, check the rocker on sleep eyes to see if it is intact, also check to see if the cork the rocker weight rests on is intact. Look down into the head to the neck of the doll to see any obvious cracks there. Now, take your flashlight out, and holding it close to the inside of the head, try not to bang it against the head, candle the head like you would an egg. Bisque is translucent and transmits light, this will help you detect repairs in the head or hidden cracks, these would show as dark areas where the light should show through. Do not mistake the dark patches around the eyes as repairs, this is probably just plaster from when the eyes were set.
Use the flashlight to examine the neck also! The head should be shifted around in the socket to examine it throughly as sometimes there are cracks hidden where the neck fits into the body socket. Check to see if the teeth are in place inside the head.
Now turn your attention to the face of the doll. Check the painting, is it nice and colorful? Are there any rubs on the nose or cheeks? Rubs are areas where the color has "rubbed" off from being played with. Are the ears ok? Did the doll have earrings, check the earring holes for chips.
Check around the eyes, the bisque is very thin here and often develops small chips. An eye chip is not a good thing. Are there painted lashes or real hair lashes? Is the mouth open or closed? Open moth dolls often have teeth (remember to check inside the head for them).
Now you should carefully remove the doll clothes to examine the body. On some dolls the clothes are sewn on and cannot be removed, or in the case of Fashion dolls so tight and fragile that they should not be removed, in these cases ask the dealer to assist, amd just move the clothes enough to get an idea of the body type and condition. If you can remove the clothes, check the body for wear and damage or mismatched parts. Composition bodies can have 5 pieces (body, 2 arms and 2 legs) on up to fully jointed with 19 parts! Is the string tight or loose? Are there any identifying marks on the body? On leather bodies are there any repairs or open tears? Are any parts of the wire armature showing through the leather? Is the body straight? Fingers ok? On leather body dolls there is usually a bisque breast plate the leather body attaches to and which the head rests on, is this intact?
Once you have examined the body as best you can, redress the doll and replace the stand. At this point you have enough information to assess the doll and consider price. I usually do not buy the first doll I see, as I want to compare it to other dolls of this same type available at the show (unless I am positive the price is low for this type of doll and it's condition). I also like to consult the price guide also to confirm that the doll is what it is and it is not grossly overpriced for this type of doll and it's condition. I don't do this in front of the dealer, I excuse myself, as I have to "think about it" , take a break away from the crowd and do last minute research.
The stratgety at this point is your call, I can't really help too much here as each individual doll, dealer and you are different, but if you like the doll and the price seems fair based on your research then .....
If you have been following the blog at this point, you may have questions or need clarifications on some points, please do not hesitate to ask or comment.
That is all for now, today, have a Good Night!
The next step is read through the book to try to determine where you want to start collecting. You may find bisque dolls appeal to you, or hard plastic, or the dolls you remember from your childhood. You can (and should) also determine the price range of your first doll from reading the books. My advice is to start slowly, don't jump into your first purchase without some idea of where you want to start. Go to a few dolls shows (leave the checkbook at home the first time or two) to get a feel for what is available from the dealers in your area. Do not be afraid to ask questions of the dealers, they are there to assist you, not just sell dolls, remember most started as newbie collectors at some point.
My first outing at a doll show was great! The dealers were (and are) very friendly and helpful. I was upfront about the fact that I was new to dolls and still learning, but not quite ready to purchase my first doll. I was inquiring about a particular child doll in the booth of one dealer, and after answering my initial questions about the doll, asked me if I would like to see her, and I quote "You won't learn unless you undress and examine her!". Words of wisdom I remember to this day! She then proceeded to take the doll off the stand to show me the doll.
Now lets walk through what you should do when inspecting a bisque doll. The first thing is to ask questions of the dealer about the doll you've got your eye on and request permission to examine the doll. They know you will need to throughly examine her, so they won't be surprised, but they will be glad you asked. Allow the dealer to take the doll down from the display for you if there are several dolls grouped together, you don't want to knock one over. When the dealer hands you the doll, be confident and grasp the doll securely like you would an infant. I like to tell the dealer that "I have her" once I have a good grip (I do the same with glassware) and she can release her grip, this assures one the doll won't fall.
The next step is to remove the doll stand if the dealer has not already done so. It is a simple process of gently squeezing the top ring and separating it from the base with a sliding motion. Be sure to keep a firm grip on the doll while doing this. Ask the dealer to show you if you are unsure, or if you'd like an extra pair of hands.
I usually look for a flat place to lay the doll down, but sometimes there isn't room for that if the dealer has a lot of dolls and a small booth. Once you have the doll secured, the first thing you should is give the doll an overall look to see if the clothes appear to be old or new, and appropriate for this doll. If the doll has a hat remove this first and examine the wig, is the wig old or new, is it appropriate for this doll, is it worn?
The next step will be to see if the wig is attached or loose, this is an important step. If the wig is firmly attached to the head, stop here, ask the dealer if he/she can remove the wig. If the wig cannot be removed from the head, I thank the dealer for their time, and put the doll back. I will not buy a doll where the wig cannot be removed, as it can be covering a crack (learned a hard lesson on this one). There are ways to remove a wig but most dealers will not allow that while on the show floor, to time consuming.
If the wig is removable, then remove it from the head. Check the back of the head and neck for any identifying marks and size numbers. Check around the rim of the head for cracks and hairlines (small, thin tight cracks), check how the eyes are set inside the head, check the rocker on sleep eyes to see if it is intact, also check to see if the cork the rocker weight rests on is intact. Look down into the head to the neck of the doll to see any obvious cracks there. Now, take your flashlight out, and holding it close to the inside of the head, try not to bang it against the head, candle the head like you would an egg. Bisque is translucent and transmits light, this will help you detect repairs in the head or hidden cracks, these would show as dark areas where the light should show through. Do not mistake the dark patches around the eyes as repairs, this is probably just plaster from when the eyes were set.
Use the flashlight to examine the neck also! The head should be shifted around in the socket to examine it throughly as sometimes there are cracks hidden where the neck fits into the body socket. Check to see if the teeth are in place inside the head.
Now turn your attention to the face of the doll. Check the painting, is it nice and colorful? Are there any rubs on the nose or cheeks? Rubs are areas where the color has "rubbed" off from being played with. Are the ears ok? Did the doll have earrings, check the earring holes for chips.
Check around the eyes, the bisque is very thin here and often develops small chips. An eye chip is not a good thing. Are there painted lashes or real hair lashes? Is the mouth open or closed? Open moth dolls often have teeth (remember to check inside the head for them).
Now you should carefully remove the doll clothes to examine the body. On some dolls the clothes are sewn on and cannot be removed, or in the case of Fashion dolls so tight and fragile that they should not be removed, in these cases ask the dealer to assist, amd just move the clothes enough to get an idea of the body type and condition. If you can remove the clothes, check the body for wear and damage or mismatched parts. Composition bodies can have 5 pieces (body, 2 arms and 2 legs) on up to fully jointed with 19 parts! Is the string tight or loose? Are there any identifying marks on the body? On leather bodies are there any repairs or open tears? Are any parts of the wire armature showing through the leather? Is the body straight? Fingers ok? On leather body dolls there is usually a bisque breast plate the leather body attaches to and which the head rests on, is this intact?
Once you have examined the body as best you can, redress the doll and replace the stand. At this point you have enough information to assess the doll and consider price. I usually do not buy the first doll I see, as I want to compare it to other dolls of this same type available at the show (unless I am positive the price is low for this type of doll and it's condition). I also like to consult the price guide also to confirm that the doll is what it is and it is not grossly overpriced for this type of doll and it's condition. I don't do this in front of the dealer, I excuse myself, as I have to "think about it" , take a break away from the crowd and do last minute research.
The stratgety at this point is your call, I can't really help too much here as each individual doll, dealer and you are different, but if you like the doll and the price seems fair based on your research then .....
If you have been following the blog at this point, you may have questions or need clarifications on some points, please do not hesitate to ask or comment.
That is all for now, today, have a Good Night!
Monday, October 5, 2009
Qualities Continued....
First let me just say I should throw the term "briefly" out the window. I don't tend to be brief about anything, and this looks to be no different. Didn't I mention people love to talk about the things they collect? So let us continue the discussion on the qualities to look for when buying a doll.
To finish up on condition, Composition, and vinyl or hard plastic dolls also have specific condition issues to watch for which can lower the value. Composition dolls should have little to no crazing with good color, hair should be in the original set, and original clothes. Heavy crazing, combed hair or a lot of play wear, or replaced clothes will lower the value, and hence one should pay less. Vinyl and hard plastic dolls must be in mint condition with original clean, unfaded clothes, the hair must be in it's original set, otherwise one should not pay top price.
For antique bisque dolls the body of the doll is also important, the body, whether composition, cloth or leather should be either original or old, appropriate and in good condition. Sometimes a body is found on an antique doll that has mismatched parts, this should be reflected in the price for the doll. Repairs and /or minor damage (a missing finger or two), including repainting of an old body, has little affect on the value of an antique doll, and is alway preferable to a new body. An antique head on a new body is really worth only the value of the head alone. The type of body can make a difference; with fully jointed composition bodies preferred over the stick type or five piece body.
Antique Fashion dolls had stuffed leather or leather covered wood bodies, with jointed wood body bringing a higher price over stuffed leather. Minor repairs are allowed, but not a new body., as with other dolls. For modern dolls, vinyl or hard plastic the body to must be perfect, with no missing or replaced parts, in order to command a top price.
The other factors in determining a doll and it's investment value are size, popularity and availability. I think popularity and availability play a large part in pricing. If a doll is popular or harder to find (less available) it tends to be higher in price, whereas a less popular or more available doll should be lower, but exceptions do exist, as when a common doll becomes popular with collectors, the price will rise. Size plays a factor, with larger sizes usually valued higher, but there are exceptions here too.
This covers the qualities to look for, but your probably wondering about the tools I said you'd need when on the hunt for your treasure. The basic tools you'll need to arm yourself with are; a loop or magnifying glass, a cloth tape measure, and a good strong hand held flashlight/penlight. Also it's a good idea to carry a current price guide for reference, as there's a lot of dolls out there and unless you have a photographic memory, you'll never remember it all (at least until you've handled quite a few dolls).
Tomorrow, I'll walk through an examination of a doll and explain the process of selecting a doll.
Good Night!
To finish up on condition, Composition, and vinyl or hard plastic dolls also have specific condition issues to watch for which can lower the value. Composition dolls should have little to no crazing with good color, hair should be in the original set, and original clothes. Heavy crazing, combed hair or a lot of play wear, or replaced clothes will lower the value, and hence one should pay less. Vinyl and hard plastic dolls must be in mint condition with original clean, unfaded clothes, the hair must be in it's original set, otherwise one should not pay top price.
For antique bisque dolls the body of the doll is also important, the body, whether composition, cloth or leather should be either original or old, appropriate and in good condition. Sometimes a body is found on an antique doll that has mismatched parts, this should be reflected in the price for the doll. Repairs and /or minor damage (a missing finger or two), including repainting of an old body, has little affect on the value of an antique doll, and is alway preferable to a new body. An antique head on a new body is really worth only the value of the head alone. The type of body can make a difference; with fully jointed composition bodies preferred over the stick type or five piece body.
Antique Fashion dolls had stuffed leather or leather covered wood bodies, with jointed wood body bringing a higher price over stuffed leather. Minor repairs are allowed, but not a new body., as with other dolls. For modern dolls, vinyl or hard plastic the body to must be perfect, with no missing or replaced parts, in order to command a top price.
The other factors in determining a doll and it's investment value are size, popularity and availability. I think popularity and availability play a large part in pricing. If a doll is popular or harder to find (less available) it tends to be higher in price, whereas a less popular or more available doll should be lower, but exceptions do exist, as when a common doll becomes popular with collectors, the price will rise. Size plays a factor, with larger sizes usually valued higher, but there are exceptions here too.
This covers the qualities to look for, but your probably wondering about the tools I said you'd need when on the hunt for your treasure. The basic tools you'll need to arm yourself with are; a loop or magnifying glass, a cloth tape measure, and a good strong hand held flashlight/penlight. Also it's a good idea to carry a current price guide for reference, as there's a lot of dolls out there and unless you have a photographic memory, you'll never remember it all (at least until you've handled quite a few dolls).
Tomorrow, I'll walk through an examination of a doll and explain the process of selecting a doll.
Good Night!
Sunday, October 4, 2009
Qualities to consider when buying a Doll
Tonight, I will briefly discuss the qualities to consider before purchasing an antique or collectible doll. The first quality for me as I peruse a booth with several available dolls is which one appeals to me most, it's visual appeal. This is probably one of the individual and subjective qualities, but it is important, after all you have to like what you buy! Visual appeal, the elusive "something" that draws one to a doll, and tells you I'm the one for you. It could be the dress, the hair, the eyes, whatever it is you'll know.
The next quality is marks; fortunately most antique dolls, especially the bisque, are marked. Other types such as cloth or paper-mache, may or may not have a mark or label. Composition dolls and most modern dolls also have marks or labels. Madame Aleanders, for instance, have their hang-tags. Marks can tell you quite a bit about a doll, including the maker, trade names, country of origin, the mold number of the doll. The clothes can also be marked, so don't forget to look. The mark can tell one alot, but don't tell the whole story, you cannot buy a doll on the mark alone.
The next quality is Quality! You need to check how well the doll was made as well as any flaws in the manufacturing. Two dolls from the same company and same mold can vary drastically in quality. You need to check the complexion of bisque dolls, how well (or not) it was decorated, the eyes (I have seen cross-eyed dolls), the wig. Ask yourself is this the best doll of this type I've seen? Is the detail of the face sharp and crisp or flat and faint? The details are very important in certain types of dolls, such as dolls with molded hair or character faces. Some bisque when fired develops black spots (like pepper on snow), or blisters and bumps, some dolls painting is not quite right, these are qualities that make a doll a second choice not first quality. It is ok to accept a doll with minor manufacturing flaws, these are toys, and the manufacturer was in business to make a profit so some unperfect heads were sold, the price you pay should reflect this. Is the hair appropriate for the doll, a synthetic wig on an antique bisque doll is just not right, but on a 1950's vinyl it's expected. Antique dolls had wigs of human hair, mohair or sheep skin, if it's the old original wig, Great, but new and appropriate is acceptable. Also check the eyes, in antique dolls they should be glass, and have a natural appearance. The more fine qualities a doll meets the higher it's price will be, lower standards equal a lower price. Some dolls fall into the exceptional category, meeting and exceeding the qualities of a good doll, these are rare and will bring a premium price.
The clothing of a doll should also be appropriate for the type of doll. Old, original clothes are getting harder to come by as fabrics have a limited life, and each year it's life gets shorter. Old, worn and mended but appropriate clothes on an antique doll, even if not original to the doll, are better than new clothes. On modern dolls the story is a bit different, the clothes must be original, in order to bring a top price! Most manufacturers of modern dolls marked their clothes with a tag, but even when not so marked it is fairly easy to determine if the clothes are original factory made clothes. Sometimes on a modern doll the clothes are the only way to identify it, as many dolls were made using the same face molds.
A note on clothes, since these items are getting rarer, and more expensive, there are several dealers who specialize in just clothing and accessories for antique and collectible dolls. Another doll collecting category, if you like old textiles!
Condition is another factor to consider, not only the clothes but the body and especially the head. Bisque doll heads should be perfect and unrepaired to bring top price. A crack on the head, or a repaired head, especially if the face of the doll is involved drastically lowers the value. A small inconspicuos hairline on a common doll will lower the value also, but somewhat less. If the doll is rare, or very uncommon, a small hairline may not affect the value as much as it would in a more commonly found example. If it is a doll you desire and not commonly found, more collectors will accept a doll with a hairline, rather than not have the doll but the price must reflect that damage. Factory defects, if inconspicuous or hidden in the completed doll, such as firing cracks, kiln debris, bubbles or unsmoothed mold lines, have little to no affect on price. Wear such as nose or cheek rubs, a chip around an earring hole, or wig pulls on bisque dolls, china dolls may have hair scuffs, wood dolls may have scuffs, or worn paint, bodies may have worn joints or missing fingers/toes; remember these are play things and this type of wear is to be expected.
Ok, this is a lot to absorb, and we have more to cover, but I will stop here for now. Tomorrow will bring more in this discussion on dolls. If you are reading this discussion and have specific questions, or more clarification on a subject, please ask.
Good Night!
The next quality is marks; fortunately most antique dolls, especially the bisque, are marked. Other types such as cloth or paper-mache, may or may not have a mark or label. Composition dolls and most modern dolls also have marks or labels. Madame Aleanders, for instance, have their hang-tags. Marks can tell you quite a bit about a doll, including the maker, trade names, country of origin, the mold number of the doll. The clothes can also be marked, so don't forget to look. The mark can tell one alot, but don't tell the whole story, you cannot buy a doll on the mark alone.
The next quality is Quality! You need to check how well the doll was made as well as any flaws in the manufacturing. Two dolls from the same company and same mold can vary drastically in quality. You need to check the complexion of bisque dolls, how well (or not) it was decorated, the eyes (I have seen cross-eyed dolls), the wig. Ask yourself is this the best doll of this type I've seen? Is the detail of the face sharp and crisp or flat and faint? The details are very important in certain types of dolls, such as dolls with molded hair or character faces. Some bisque when fired develops black spots (like pepper on snow), or blisters and bumps, some dolls painting is not quite right, these are qualities that make a doll a second choice not first quality. It is ok to accept a doll with minor manufacturing flaws, these are toys, and the manufacturer was in business to make a profit so some unperfect heads were sold, the price you pay should reflect this. Is the hair appropriate for the doll, a synthetic wig on an antique bisque doll is just not right, but on a 1950's vinyl it's expected. Antique dolls had wigs of human hair, mohair or sheep skin, if it's the old original wig, Great, but new and appropriate is acceptable. Also check the eyes, in antique dolls they should be glass, and have a natural appearance. The more fine qualities a doll meets the higher it's price will be, lower standards equal a lower price. Some dolls fall into the exceptional category, meeting and exceeding the qualities of a good doll, these are rare and will bring a premium price.
The clothing of a doll should also be appropriate for the type of doll. Old, original clothes are getting harder to come by as fabrics have a limited life, and each year it's life gets shorter. Old, worn and mended but appropriate clothes on an antique doll, even if not original to the doll, are better than new clothes. On modern dolls the story is a bit different, the clothes must be original, in order to bring a top price! Most manufacturers of modern dolls marked their clothes with a tag, but even when not so marked it is fairly easy to determine if the clothes are original factory made clothes. Sometimes on a modern doll the clothes are the only way to identify it, as many dolls were made using the same face molds.
A note on clothes, since these items are getting rarer, and more expensive, there are several dealers who specialize in just clothing and accessories for antique and collectible dolls. Another doll collecting category, if you like old textiles!
Condition is another factor to consider, not only the clothes but the body and especially the head. Bisque doll heads should be perfect and unrepaired to bring top price. A crack on the head, or a repaired head, especially if the face of the doll is involved drastically lowers the value. A small inconspicuos hairline on a common doll will lower the value also, but somewhat less. If the doll is rare, or very uncommon, a small hairline may not affect the value as much as it would in a more commonly found example. If it is a doll you desire and not commonly found, more collectors will accept a doll with a hairline, rather than not have the doll but the price must reflect that damage. Factory defects, if inconspicuous or hidden in the completed doll, such as firing cracks, kiln debris, bubbles or unsmoothed mold lines, have little to no affect on price. Wear such as nose or cheek rubs, a chip around an earring hole, or wig pulls on bisque dolls, china dolls may have hair scuffs, wood dolls may have scuffs, or worn paint, bodies may have worn joints or missing fingers/toes; remember these are play things and this type of wear is to be expected.
Ok, this is a lot to absorb, and we have more to cover, but I will stop here for now. Tomorrow will bring more in this discussion on dolls. If you are reading this discussion and have specific questions, or more clarification on a subject, please ask.
Good Night!
Friday, October 2, 2009
Starting at the beginning....
Well I missed an entry yesterday, the 9 to 5 had kept me up to late for a few nights in a row so I crashed early. I had to get up early today to take care of loose ends at work, got those straightened out so I have my weekend free for other things I need to do around the house and for my other love antiques and collectibles.
This will be a short installment tonight but I want to set the stage for the next few entries.
When I first started in antiques I picked a item I liked: antique dolls (turns out a lot of the top dealers and collectors are men!). My older sister, mother and younger sister were collecting Madame Alexander at that time. Well, really it was my older sister first, our mother had bought her one doll at each birthday from the time she was little, so she had a few, then she started collecting when she had money of her own. This sparked my mother and younger sister to "help" my older sister locate dolls for her collection and at the same time started their own collections. I didn't particularly like the Alexanders as the faces all looked kind of the same and I saw them everywhere. Don't get me wrong, they are a good collectible doll, just not what I liked.
I leaned more toward the bisque dolls, I especially like the French Fashion dolls and the Googlies (think wide round eyes, and impish grins). The bisque dolls while not particularly rare as a category are also not common fare at flea markets and general line shows, but they can be found. They tend to be more expensive due this and their respective popularity.
These dolls (and all dolls) take a bit of learning before buying as there are many things to look for and factors to consider before laying out several hundred dollars minimun for a doll. Some of these go for thousands. Just recently a doll sold for $175,000.00! (more about that one later).
Over the next few entries I will cover what qualities to look for in a doll, and what tools you'll need when shopping for a doll. I bet you didn't know you'd need tools!
Till the next time, Good Night!
This will be a short installment tonight but I want to set the stage for the next few entries.
When I first started in antiques I picked a item I liked: antique dolls (turns out a lot of the top dealers and collectors are men!). My older sister, mother and younger sister were collecting Madame Alexander at that time. Well, really it was my older sister first, our mother had bought her one doll at each birthday from the time she was little, so she had a few, then she started collecting when she had money of her own. This sparked my mother and younger sister to "help" my older sister locate dolls for her collection and at the same time started their own collections. I didn't particularly like the Alexanders as the faces all looked kind of the same and I saw them everywhere. Don't get me wrong, they are a good collectible doll, just not what I liked.
I leaned more toward the bisque dolls, I especially like the French Fashion dolls and the Googlies (think wide round eyes, and impish grins). The bisque dolls while not particularly rare as a category are also not common fare at flea markets and general line shows, but they can be found. They tend to be more expensive due this and their respective popularity.
These dolls (and all dolls) take a bit of learning before buying as there are many things to look for and factors to consider before laying out several hundred dollars minimun for a doll. Some of these go for thousands. Just recently a doll sold for $175,000.00! (more about that one later).
Over the next few entries I will cover what qualities to look for in a doll, and what tools you'll need when shopping for a doll. I bet you didn't know you'd need tools!
Till the next time, Good Night!
Wednesday, September 30, 2009
What I like most......
The best thing about antiques and collectibles is learning about your new acquisition. That's the part I really like, investigating and learning everything I can about what I now hold in my hands. It may be a piece of glass, or a piece of jewelry or a simple wooden box with a label, but it's also a mystery with a story to tell. I just have to ask the right questions.
I use all the means at my disposal to find out the who, what, where and when of an item. I have a large (and growing) library of books on marks, general/specific information on several types of antiques and collectibles, general guides on a variety of items, and of course, price guides. I also use the library on occasion to find information on more esoteric items and antiquities (don't have any of those in my collection). Don't tell anyone, but I also use bookstores to get information when I'm traveling, as I don't have my library with me, when I've found something interesting that I don't know much about. Even the newspaper can hold answers to your questions, the Kovels answer that type of question every week for some inquisitive soul.
I ask friends in the business, and clients too, about the things they collect, in order to gain information on items they may know more about than I. One thing I have learned in this field; people love to talk about the stuff they collect.
And I use the biggest information source there is, the Internet! Lots of information to find there, some of it good, some of it bad, and some downright wrong! That's why you need a lot of sources of information, some things that may have been accepted as true in the past, turned out to be wrong when additional information was brought to light.
Sure you can buy an antique or collectible just because you like the way it looks, but you'll love it even more when you find out it's background information and dig into it's history, just as we find people more interesting when we ask questions and find out their history and stories.
If you're reading this blog, and have questions, ask me! That is part of what this blog is about, to inform and get informed. Over the course of this blog I will be taking items and writing about I've found out about it.
That's how collectors get started really, by finding an item that intriques them enough to want to know more. Maybe I can trigger that spark in you.
I use all the means at my disposal to find out the who, what, where and when of an item. I have a large (and growing) library of books on marks, general/specific information on several types of antiques and collectibles, general guides on a variety of items, and of course, price guides. I also use the library on occasion to find information on more esoteric items and antiquities (don't have any of those in my collection). Don't tell anyone, but I also use bookstores to get information when I'm traveling, as I don't have my library with me, when I've found something interesting that I don't know much about. Even the newspaper can hold answers to your questions, the Kovels answer that type of question every week for some inquisitive soul.
I ask friends in the business, and clients too, about the things they collect, in order to gain information on items they may know more about than I. One thing I have learned in this field; people love to talk about the stuff they collect.
And I use the biggest information source there is, the Internet! Lots of information to find there, some of it good, some of it bad, and some downright wrong! That's why you need a lot of sources of information, some things that may have been accepted as true in the past, turned out to be wrong when additional information was brought to light.
Sure you can buy an antique or collectible just because you like the way it looks, but you'll love it even more when you find out it's background information and dig into it's history, just as we find people more interesting when we ask questions and find out their history and stories.
If you're reading this blog, and have questions, ask me! That is part of what this blog is about, to inform and get informed. Over the course of this blog I will be taking items and writing about I've found out about it.
That's how collectors get started really, by finding an item that intriques them enough to want to know more. Maybe I can trigger that spark in you.
Tuesday, September 29, 2009
The 9 to 5 that pays the bills kept me working until after 10 PM tonight. One of the jobs to process client payments blew up for a reason known only to itself. I figure it may have been an authority issue on one of the files. Then the retry of the job failed, a file was in use by another job (it appears the prior job locked the file) but when I checked, miraculously ythe file was not in use by anyone, very weird.
I got the programs and files reset so that they can try again in the morning.
I'm going to try an informational post tomorrow, and see if I can't interest anyone in starting a new collection. I just haven't decided which collectible topic to write about yet.
We'll see what tomorrow brings, it will be a late post again, as I have an auction in the evening.
I'm beat at the moment so this is Good Night!
I got the programs and files reset so that they can try again in the morning.
I'm going to try an informational post tomorrow, and see if I can't interest anyone in starting a new collection. I just haven't decided which collectible topic to write about yet.
We'll see what tomorrow brings, it will be a late post again, as I have an auction in the evening.
I'm beat at the moment so this is Good Night!
Monday, September 28, 2009
More about what I like.....
Well, you know I like antiques and collectibles but you're probably wondering what do I like specifically. Easy question, easy answer; everything!
But I can't collect everything so I stick to a few special things.
Murano Glass from 1900 - 1990 but mostly mid 20th Century, American Art Pottery such as Rookwood, Roseville, Grueby, Van Briggle; Dishes (I love dishes! 1800's to 1970's); Depression glass; Costume and Sterling Jewelry; hardsided Louis Vuitton from the 1850's to 1980 (not the new soft stuff, too many fakes); Antique Bisque, Composition and Plastic Dolls from the 1800's to 1970; Hermes desk accessories and equestrian pieces; Cookie jars; Scandinavian Glass and Pottery from mid 20th Century; Toys (tin, iron and plastic); Furniture (small pieces, oak, cherry, pine 40,s/50's blonde). Plus anything else I find interesting!
See only a few special things! Check out my shop, www.trocadero.com/antiquesonbardwell and you'll see some of what I have, adding more as my time permits, my 9 to 5 job does keep me busy (for more than 40 hours per week, plus travel), plus running around to antiques fairs, auctions and shows keeps me busy too, so I try to find only the best I can to offer my clients.
Went to auction preview just today that has some Art pottery I'd like to get, we'll see about those as the auction isn't till later in the week.
Hopefully will have some new stuff up shortly, but like I said earlier check out the shop, you might find we have something in common!
But I can't collect everything so I stick to a few special things.
Murano Glass from 1900 - 1990 but mostly mid 20th Century, American Art Pottery such as Rookwood, Roseville, Grueby, Van Briggle; Dishes (I love dishes! 1800's to 1970's); Depression glass; Costume and Sterling Jewelry; hardsided Louis Vuitton from the 1850's to 1980 (not the new soft stuff, too many fakes); Antique Bisque, Composition and Plastic Dolls from the 1800's to 1970; Hermes desk accessories and equestrian pieces; Cookie jars; Scandinavian Glass and Pottery from mid 20th Century; Toys (tin, iron and plastic); Furniture (small pieces, oak, cherry, pine 40,s/50's blonde). Plus anything else I find interesting!
See only a few special things! Check out my shop, www.trocadero.com/antiquesonbardwell and you'll see some of what I have, adding more as my time permits, my 9 to 5 job does keep me busy (for more than 40 hours per week, plus travel), plus running around to antiques fairs, auctions and shows keeps me busy too, so I try to find only the best I can to offer my clients.
Went to auction preview just today that has some Art pottery I'd like to get, we'll see about those as the auction isn't till later in the week.
Hopefully will have some new stuff up shortly, but like I said earlier check out the shop, you might find we have something in common!
Sunday, September 27, 2009
A Story and a Complaint...
I know I should probably start with a more light-hearted first "real" post but something happened this past week that really bothered me. I went on a trip to Renningers in Kutztown, PA, looking forward to the experience as I was told this is a large 3-day show running Thursday through Saturday and the weather was going to be good. We got a late start, and this is an over 200 mile ride one-way, but we'd get there sometime around 2 PM. We arrived at 2:15 PM, and asked at the gate how may dealers were in attendance before paying our $15 per head entrance fee. We were told that there were 650 dealers in attendance that day. Not bad for $15, so we paid, parked the car and walked to field.
If you've been to Renningers you know that the Pavillions block the view of the field beyond, so you can't really see how many dealers there are set up, most keep to the front anyway. Also there is a permanent indoor flea market with dealers and food booths off to one side which promised to be interesting (the person I was with had been before and told me about it). As I walked around I was thinking the count of 650 dealers was a bit low even if it included the permanent indoor dealers, but heck the gate person probably was just guessing.
Now here is what bothered me, this was 2:20 PM on opening day (Thursday) of a 3-day show, that closes at 5 PM and dealers were packing up and leaving. It was clear that many dealers had already packed and left as we saw evidence of booths that had been vacated (trash, trampled grass, and stake holes). I paid $15 to shop what was essentially a closing store. I think even if you're not staying all three days, you could at least stay a full first day, you paid for the space.
The permanent indoor flea, which closes at 5 PM also, was not much better, most of the booths were closed (secured with plastic and clothespin doors/curtains), the food vendors were cleaning and closing up, this is at around 3:30 PM! There were a couple vendors open, a penny candy booth, a meat market, and a few other trinket vendors.
There was one very nice vendor, a lady who sells homemade candies by the pound, whom I bought a bag of nonparreils from, who offered my travelling companion and I a free peanutbutter cup sample. Thank you!
One of the most perplexing things I saw at the show was in the meat market. Does anyone know what you do with smoked pig traechea?
If you've been to Renningers you know that the Pavillions block the view of the field beyond, so you can't really see how many dealers there are set up, most keep to the front anyway. Also there is a permanent indoor flea market with dealers and food booths off to one side which promised to be interesting (the person I was with had been before and told me about it). As I walked around I was thinking the count of 650 dealers was a bit low even if it included the permanent indoor dealers, but heck the gate person probably was just guessing.
Now here is what bothered me, this was 2:20 PM on opening day (Thursday) of a 3-day show, that closes at 5 PM and dealers were packing up and leaving. It was clear that many dealers had already packed and left as we saw evidence of booths that had been vacated (trash, trampled grass, and stake holes). I paid $15 to shop what was essentially a closing store. I think even if you're not staying all three days, you could at least stay a full first day, you paid for the space.
The permanent indoor flea, which closes at 5 PM also, was not much better, most of the booths were closed (secured with plastic and clothespin doors/curtains), the food vendors were cleaning and closing up, this is at around 3:30 PM! There were a couple vendors open, a penny candy booth, a meat market, and a few other trinket vendors.
There was one very nice vendor, a lady who sells homemade candies by the pound, whom I bought a bag of nonparreils from, who offered my travelling companion and I a free peanutbutter cup sample. Thank you!
One of the most perplexing things I saw at the show was in the meat market. Does anyone know what you do with smoked pig traechea?
Saturday, September 26, 2009
Introductions.....
Good Morning, Good Afternoon or Good Evening. Depends on where you are at the moment but for me it's morning. A little about me and what I intend to accomplish with this blog.
I am a 50-something year old antiques and collectibles dealer who does shows and sells on the Internet. I started this business after years of being a "crazy collector of old stuff" (my friends description of me), that I liked. Soon the house was full, and needing to make room, lead to my finding the 26th Street Flea Market in New York City which allowed me to sell a few items to make space, buy a few items to fill it back up and connect with others who had that same love of all things old (some valuable, yes. some not). Those were the old days of antiques, I met some interesting people there, I'll tell the story of meeting Andy Warhol there, having photos taken by the camera shy Diane Keaton, and some other stories, in other blog entries. Don't want to tell everything at once!
I've been up and down the East Coast, and across the country looking for elusive items for myself and my clients, and I will relate those adventures (and misadventures) here as time allows.
I'm not just an antiques freak, I have more to my life. I've been a computer programmer for more than 30 years, mainly in IBM Midrange machines, but primarily it keeps the bills paid, with some money left over available to continue to buy what I like, and also to buy what my clients like.
The purpose of this blog? To connect to people who like antiques, people who collect, other dealers, and those who have a passing interest in the subject, perhaps even turn noncollectors into new collectors and perhaps, clients. Whatever group you fall into I want to pass along what I can, gripe when I need to, inform and get informed.
This is also a chance to allow my two worlds, high tech and no tech to collide and blend in way they haven't before. Sure, I've used the Internet before to sell and buy, email and correspond, but not at this level.
I expect this to be fun and interesting, for all of us!
I am a 50-something year old antiques and collectibles dealer who does shows and sells on the Internet. I started this business after years of being a "crazy collector of old stuff" (my friends description of me), that I liked. Soon the house was full, and needing to make room, lead to my finding the 26th Street Flea Market in New York City which allowed me to sell a few items to make space, buy a few items to fill it back up and connect with others who had that same love of all things old (some valuable, yes. some not). Those were the old days of antiques, I met some interesting people there, I'll tell the story of meeting Andy Warhol there, having photos taken by the camera shy Diane Keaton, and some other stories, in other blog entries. Don't want to tell everything at once!
I've been up and down the East Coast, and across the country looking for elusive items for myself and my clients, and I will relate those adventures (and misadventures) here as time allows.
I'm not just an antiques freak, I have more to my life. I've been a computer programmer for more than 30 years, mainly in IBM Midrange machines, but primarily it keeps the bills paid, with some money left over available to continue to buy what I like, and also to buy what my clients like.
The purpose of this blog? To connect to people who like antiques, people who collect, other dealers, and those who have a passing interest in the subject, perhaps even turn noncollectors into new collectors and perhaps, clients. Whatever group you fall into I want to pass along what I can, gripe when I need to, inform and get informed.
This is also a chance to allow my two worlds, high tech and no tech to collide and blend in way they haven't before. Sure, I've used the Internet before to sell and buy, email and correspond, but not at this level.
I expect this to be fun and interesting, for all of us!
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