The question arose as to whether one should consider a doll with damage such as a hairline crack, or fingers missing. The answer is yes, not all dolls are perfect and some are rare enough to warrant buying with damage. Doll museums will buy a rare doll with damage as it may be the only way to have an example of a particular doll, making repairs only as needed to make the doll presentable to the public.
Also damage varies from minor to severe,some repairable and some not, but as long as it reflected in the cost, and is at a level you are willing to accept, you can feel confident in buying and adding to your collection.
Repairs to dolls are not inexpensive, so you must really attempt to buy the best doll you can for your money, and if you wish, making only the repairs that are necessary to bring the doll to a level acceptable to you, and keep as much of the authenticity of the original doll as possible.
I hope I have helped to answer this question. I will be moving on to a new category tomorrow, unless another question arises about dolls, not sure what it will be yet, but it may be something that sparks your imagination.
For now, Good Night!
Monday, October 12, 2009
Sunday, October 11, 2009
A difficult segue....
Ok, it's been a couple of days since my last post. My 9 to 5 job has kept me busier than usual, with a few very long days, and a couple extra.
I was trying to come up with a way to segue from the walkthrough but I can't come up with anything clever, so let's just continue a bit on dolls.
I've found over the years that it's best to go to a doll show with a particular doll in mind for purchase, several in mind actually. Carry a list of dolls you've seen that you would like to have in your collection, write down the mold number, maker, doll type, height (if it's a limiting factor) and the price range for the doll. Don't make the list too long, say, a half-dozen of so to start, add to the list when one is removed, or if your taste/budget changes.
When you first start out, go to doll shows (and antique shows) and do not be afraid to talk to the dealers, even if you are not buying! I found out my best information from them, and many helpful hints, like the tools of the trade. Dealers love talking about their stuff, and doll dealers love their dolls.
I've found that one should only ask one or two questions then let the dealer tend to business, so you don't monopolize their time. I know several dealers who will talk for hours (yes I'm guilty here) if you let them, but don't let them, there's lots to see and you won't want to miss anything either. Many doll shows also cover bears and toys, and who knows you may find them more interesting than the dolls you came to see!
If you do see a doll you'd like to look at don't hesitate to ask the dealer if you can inspect the doll, cause how else are you going to learn?
If you've been following the blog, and would like to know more about something in particular that I've covered, or you would like me to cover, regarding antiques, please ask. Also in the coming weeks I will be adding photos into the blog to illustrate things we're discussing (or have discussed), I think you'll find that a bit more helpful in some areas, like manufacturers marks.
For now, Good Night!
I was trying to come up with a way to segue from the walkthrough but I can't come up with anything clever, so let's just continue a bit on dolls.
I've found over the years that it's best to go to a doll show with a particular doll in mind for purchase, several in mind actually. Carry a list of dolls you've seen that you would like to have in your collection, write down the mold number, maker, doll type, height (if it's a limiting factor) and the price range for the doll. Don't make the list too long, say, a half-dozen of so to start, add to the list when one is removed, or if your taste/budget changes.
When you first start out, go to doll shows (and antique shows) and do not be afraid to talk to the dealers, even if you are not buying! I found out my best information from them, and many helpful hints, like the tools of the trade. Dealers love talking about their stuff, and doll dealers love their dolls.
I've found that one should only ask one or two questions then let the dealer tend to business, so you don't monopolize their time. I know several dealers who will talk for hours (yes I'm guilty here) if you let them, but don't let them, there's lots to see and you won't want to miss anything either. Many doll shows also cover bears and toys, and who knows you may find them more interesting than the dolls you came to see!
If you do see a doll you'd like to look at don't hesitate to ask the dealer if you can inspect the doll, cause how else are you going to learn?
If you've been following the blog, and would like to know more about something in particular that I've covered, or you would like me to cover, regarding antiques, please ask. Also in the coming weeks I will be adding photos into the blog to illustrate things we're discussing (or have discussed), I think you'll find that a bit more helpful in some areas, like manufacturers marks.
For now, Good Night!
Thursday, October 8, 2009
Just got off the 9 to 5, and I'm beat, so no long entry tonight.
Just wanted to say I reread my last posting and forgot to mention that while you have the doll laying flat and the wig is off, now is the time to measure the height of the doll. Yes, I realize the dealer probably has the height already on the tag, but I like to measure anyway. Starting at the top of head measure all the way down to the toes, this is the height of the doll.
I hope everyone had a good day, but for now have a Good Night!
Just wanted to say I reread my last posting and forgot to mention that while you have the doll laying flat and the wig is off, now is the time to measure the height of the doll. Yes, I realize the dealer probably has the height already on the tag, but I like to measure anyway. Starting at the top of head measure all the way down to the toes, this is the height of the doll.
I hope everyone had a good day, but for now have a Good Night!
Tuesday, October 6, 2009
An Inspection Walk Through
Selecting a doll to buy is a simple process once you've done your homework! The first thing I suggest is to buy a doll price guide, there are several very good ones on the market, perhaps the most well known is "The Blue Book" by Jan Foulke, but there are others. Peruse them all and select the one that suits you best.
The next step is read through the book to try to determine where you want to start collecting. You may find bisque dolls appeal to you, or hard plastic, or the dolls you remember from your childhood. You can (and should) also determine the price range of your first doll from reading the books. My advice is to start slowly, don't jump into your first purchase without some idea of where you want to start. Go to a few dolls shows (leave the checkbook at home the first time or two) to get a feel for what is available from the dealers in your area. Do not be afraid to ask questions of the dealers, they are there to assist you, not just sell dolls, remember most started as newbie collectors at some point.
My first outing at a doll show was great! The dealers were (and are) very friendly and helpful. I was upfront about the fact that I was new to dolls and still learning, but not quite ready to purchase my first doll. I was inquiring about a particular child doll in the booth of one dealer, and after answering my initial questions about the doll, asked me if I would like to see her, and I quote "You won't learn unless you undress and examine her!". Words of wisdom I remember to this day! She then proceeded to take the doll off the stand to show me the doll.
Now lets walk through what you should do when inspecting a bisque doll. The first thing is to ask questions of the dealer about the doll you've got your eye on and request permission to examine the doll. They know you will need to throughly examine her, so they won't be surprised, but they will be glad you asked. Allow the dealer to take the doll down from the display for you if there are several dolls grouped together, you don't want to knock one over. When the dealer hands you the doll, be confident and grasp the doll securely like you would an infant. I like to tell the dealer that "I have her" once I have a good grip (I do the same with glassware) and she can release her grip, this assures one the doll won't fall.
The next step is to remove the doll stand if the dealer has not already done so. It is a simple process of gently squeezing the top ring and separating it from the base with a sliding motion. Be sure to keep a firm grip on the doll while doing this. Ask the dealer to show you if you are unsure, or if you'd like an extra pair of hands.
I usually look for a flat place to lay the doll down, but sometimes there isn't room for that if the dealer has a lot of dolls and a small booth. Once you have the doll secured, the first thing you should is give the doll an overall look to see if the clothes appear to be old or new, and appropriate for this doll. If the doll has a hat remove this first and examine the wig, is the wig old or new, is it appropriate for this doll, is it worn?
The next step will be to see if the wig is attached or loose, this is an important step. If the wig is firmly attached to the head, stop here, ask the dealer if he/she can remove the wig. If the wig cannot be removed from the head, I thank the dealer for their time, and put the doll back. I will not buy a doll where the wig cannot be removed, as it can be covering a crack (learned a hard lesson on this one). There are ways to remove a wig but most dealers will not allow that while on the show floor, to time consuming.
If the wig is removable, then remove it from the head. Check the back of the head and neck for any identifying marks and size numbers. Check around the rim of the head for cracks and hairlines (small, thin tight cracks), check how the eyes are set inside the head, check the rocker on sleep eyes to see if it is intact, also check to see if the cork the rocker weight rests on is intact. Look down into the head to the neck of the doll to see any obvious cracks there. Now, take your flashlight out, and holding it close to the inside of the head, try not to bang it against the head, candle the head like you would an egg. Bisque is translucent and transmits light, this will help you detect repairs in the head or hidden cracks, these would show as dark areas where the light should show through. Do not mistake the dark patches around the eyes as repairs, this is probably just plaster from when the eyes were set.
Use the flashlight to examine the neck also! The head should be shifted around in the socket to examine it throughly as sometimes there are cracks hidden where the neck fits into the body socket. Check to see if the teeth are in place inside the head.
Now turn your attention to the face of the doll. Check the painting, is it nice and colorful? Are there any rubs on the nose or cheeks? Rubs are areas where the color has "rubbed" off from being played with. Are the ears ok? Did the doll have earrings, check the earring holes for chips.
Check around the eyes, the bisque is very thin here and often develops small chips. An eye chip is not a good thing. Are there painted lashes or real hair lashes? Is the mouth open or closed? Open moth dolls often have teeth (remember to check inside the head for them).
Now you should carefully remove the doll clothes to examine the body. On some dolls the clothes are sewn on and cannot be removed, or in the case of Fashion dolls so tight and fragile that they should not be removed, in these cases ask the dealer to assist, amd just move the clothes enough to get an idea of the body type and condition. If you can remove the clothes, check the body for wear and damage or mismatched parts. Composition bodies can have 5 pieces (body, 2 arms and 2 legs) on up to fully jointed with 19 parts! Is the string tight or loose? Are there any identifying marks on the body? On leather bodies are there any repairs or open tears? Are any parts of the wire armature showing through the leather? Is the body straight? Fingers ok? On leather body dolls there is usually a bisque breast plate the leather body attaches to and which the head rests on, is this intact?
Once you have examined the body as best you can, redress the doll and replace the stand. At this point you have enough information to assess the doll and consider price. I usually do not buy the first doll I see, as I want to compare it to other dolls of this same type available at the show (unless I am positive the price is low for this type of doll and it's condition). I also like to consult the price guide also to confirm that the doll is what it is and it is not grossly overpriced for this type of doll and it's condition. I don't do this in front of the dealer, I excuse myself, as I have to "think about it" , take a break away from the crowd and do last minute research.
The stratgety at this point is your call, I can't really help too much here as each individual doll, dealer and you are different, but if you like the doll and the price seems fair based on your research then .....
If you have been following the blog at this point, you may have questions or need clarifications on some points, please do not hesitate to ask or comment.
That is all for now, today, have a Good Night!
The next step is read through the book to try to determine where you want to start collecting. You may find bisque dolls appeal to you, or hard plastic, or the dolls you remember from your childhood. You can (and should) also determine the price range of your first doll from reading the books. My advice is to start slowly, don't jump into your first purchase without some idea of where you want to start. Go to a few dolls shows (leave the checkbook at home the first time or two) to get a feel for what is available from the dealers in your area. Do not be afraid to ask questions of the dealers, they are there to assist you, not just sell dolls, remember most started as newbie collectors at some point.
My first outing at a doll show was great! The dealers were (and are) very friendly and helpful. I was upfront about the fact that I was new to dolls and still learning, but not quite ready to purchase my first doll. I was inquiring about a particular child doll in the booth of one dealer, and after answering my initial questions about the doll, asked me if I would like to see her, and I quote "You won't learn unless you undress and examine her!". Words of wisdom I remember to this day! She then proceeded to take the doll off the stand to show me the doll.
Now lets walk through what you should do when inspecting a bisque doll. The first thing is to ask questions of the dealer about the doll you've got your eye on and request permission to examine the doll. They know you will need to throughly examine her, so they won't be surprised, but they will be glad you asked. Allow the dealer to take the doll down from the display for you if there are several dolls grouped together, you don't want to knock one over. When the dealer hands you the doll, be confident and grasp the doll securely like you would an infant. I like to tell the dealer that "I have her" once I have a good grip (I do the same with glassware) and she can release her grip, this assures one the doll won't fall.
The next step is to remove the doll stand if the dealer has not already done so. It is a simple process of gently squeezing the top ring and separating it from the base with a sliding motion. Be sure to keep a firm grip on the doll while doing this. Ask the dealer to show you if you are unsure, or if you'd like an extra pair of hands.
I usually look for a flat place to lay the doll down, but sometimes there isn't room for that if the dealer has a lot of dolls and a small booth. Once you have the doll secured, the first thing you should is give the doll an overall look to see if the clothes appear to be old or new, and appropriate for this doll. If the doll has a hat remove this first and examine the wig, is the wig old or new, is it appropriate for this doll, is it worn?
The next step will be to see if the wig is attached or loose, this is an important step. If the wig is firmly attached to the head, stop here, ask the dealer if he/she can remove the wig. If the wig cannot be removed from the head, I thank the dealer for their time, and put the doll back. I will not buy a doll where the wig cannot be removed, as it can be covering a crack (learned a hard lesson on this one). There are ways to remove a wig but most dealers will not allow that while on the show floor, to time consuming.
If the wig is removable, then remove it from the head. Check the back of the head and neck for any identifying marks and size numbers. Check around the rim of the head for cracks and hairlines (small, thin tight cracks), check how the eyes are set inside the head, check the rocker on sleep eyes to see if it is intact, also check to see if the cork the rocker weight rests on is intact. Look down into the head to the neck of the doll to see any obvious cracks there. Now, take your flashlight out, and holding it close to the inside of the head, try not to bang it against the head, candle the head like you would an egg. Bisque is translucent and transmits light, this will help you detect repairs in the head or hidden cracks, these would show as dark areas where the light should show through. Do not mistake the dark patches around the eyes as repairs, this is probably just plaster from when the eyes were set.
Use the flashlight to examine the neck also! The head should be shifted around in the socket to examine it throughly as sometimes there are cracks hidden where the neck fits into the body socket. Check to see if the teeth are in place inside the head.
Now turn your attention to the face of the doll. Check the painting, is it nice and colorful? Are there any rubs on the nose or cheeks? Rubs are areas where the color has "rubbed" off from being played with. Are the ears ok? Did the doll have earrings, check the earring holes for chips.
Check around the eyes, the bisque is very thin here and often develops small chips. An eye chip is not a good thing. Are there painted lashes or real hair lashes? Is the mouth open or closed? Open moth dolls often have teeth (remember to check inside the head for them).
Now you should carefully remove the doll clothes to examine the body. On some dolls the clothes are sewn on and cannot be removed, or in the case of Fashion dolls so tight and fragile that they should not be removed, in these cases ask the dealer to assist, amd just move the clothes enough to get an idea of the body type and condition. If you can remove the clothes, check the body for wear and damage or mismatched parts. Composition bodies can have 5 pieces (body, 2 arms and 2 legs) on up to fully jointed with 19 parts! Is the string tight or loose? Are there any identifying marks on the body? On leather bodies are there any repairs or open tears? Are any parts of the wire armature showing through the leather? Is the body straight? Fingers ok? On leather body dolls there is usually a bisque breast plate the leather body attaches to and which the head rests on, is this intact?
Once you have examined the body as best you can, redress the doll and replace the stand. At this point you have enough information to assess the doll and consider price. I usually do not buy the first doll I see, as I want to compare it to other dolls of this same type available at the show (unless I am positive the price is low for this type of doll and it's condition). I also like to consult the price guide also to confirm that the doll is what it is and it is not grossly overpriced for this type of doll and it's condition. I don't do this in front of the dealer, I excuse myself, as I have to "think about it" , take a break away from the crowd and do last minute research.
The stratgety at this point is your call, I can't really help too much here as each individual doll, dealer and you are different, but if you like the doll and the price seems fair based on your research then .....
If you have been following the blog at this point, you may have questions or need clarifications on some points, please do not hesitate to ask or comment.
That is all for now, today, have a Good Night!
Monday, October 5, 2009
Qualities Continued....
First let me just say I should throw the term "briefly" out the window. I don't tend to be brief about anything, and this looks to be no different. Didn't I mention people love to talk about the things they collect? So let us continue the discussion on the qualities to look for when buying a doll.
To finish up on condition, Composition, and vinyl or hard plastic dolls also have specific condition issues to watch for which can lower the value. Composition dolls should have little to no crazing with good color, hair should be in the original set, and original clothes. Heavy crazing, combed hair or a lot of play wear, or replaced clothes will lower the value, and hence one should pay less. Vinyl and hard plastic dolls must be in mint condition with original clean, unfaded clothes, the hair must be in it's original set, otherwise one should not pay top price.
For antique bisque dolls the body of the doll is also important, the body, whether composition, cloth or leather should be either original or old, appropriate and in good condition. Sometimes a body is found on an antique doll that has mismatched parts, this should be reflected in the price for the doll. Repairs and /or minor damage (a missing finger or two), including repainting of an old body, has little affect on the value of an antique doll, and is alway preferable to a new body. An antique head on a new body is really worth only the value of the head alone. The type of body can make a difference; with fully jointed composition bodies preferred over the stick type or five piece body.
Antique Fashion dolls had stuffed leather or leather covered wood bodies, with jointed wood body bringing a higher price over stuffed leather. Minor repairs are allowed, but not a new body., as with other dolls. For modern dolls, vinyl or hard plastic the body to must be perfect, with no missing or replaced parts, in order to command a top price.
The other factors in determining a doll and it's investment value are size, popularity and availability. I think popularity and availability play a large part in pricing. If a doll is popular or harder to find (less available) it tends to be higher in price, whereas a less popular or more available doll should be lower, but exceptions do exist, as when a common doll becomes popular with collectors, the price will rise. Size plays a factor, with larger sizes usually valued higher, but there are exceptions here too.
This covers the qualities to look for, but your probably wondering about the tools I said you'd need when on the hunt for your treasure. The basic tools you'll need to arm yourself with are; a loop or magnifying glass, a cloth tape measure, and a good strong hand held flashlight/penlight. Also it's a good idea to carry a current price guide for reference, as there's a lot of dolls out there and unless you have a photographic memory, you'll never remember it all (at least until you've handled quite a few dolls).
Tomorrow, I'll walk through an examination of a doll and explain the process of selecting a doll.
Good Night!
To finish up on condition, Composition, and vinyl or hard plastic dolls also have specific condition issues to watch for which can lower the value. Composition dolls should have little to no crazing with good color, hair should be in the original set, and original clothes. Heavy crazing, combed hair or a lot of play wear, or replaced clothes will lower the value, and hence one should pay less. Vinyl and hard plastic dolls must be in mint condition with original clean, unfaded clothes, the hair must be in it's original set, otherwise one should not pay top price.
For antique bisque dolls the body of the doll is also important, the body, whether composition, cloth or leather should be either original or old, appropriate and in good condition. Sometimes a body is found on an antique doll that has mismatched parts, this should be reflected in the price for the doll. Repairs and /or minor damage (a missing finger or two), including repainting of an old body, has little affect on the value of an antique doll, and is alway preferable to a new body. An antique head on a new body is really worth only the value of the head alone. The type of body can make a difference; with fully jointed composition bodies preferred over the stick type or five piece body.
Antique Fashion dolls had stuffed leather or leather covered wood bodies, with jointed wood body bringing a higher price over stuffed leather. Minor repairs are allowed, but not a new body., as with other dolls. For modern dolls, vinyl or hard plastic the body to must be perfect, with no missing or replaced parts, in order to command a top price.
The other factors in determining a doll and it's investment value are size, popularity and availability. I think popularity and availability play a large part in pricing. If a doll is popular or harder to find (less available) it tends to be higher in price, whereas a less popular or more available doll should be lower, but exceptions do exist, as when a common doll becomes popular with collectors, the price will rise. Size plays a factor, with larger sizes usually valued higher, but there are exceptions here too.
This covers the qualities to look for, but your probably wondering about the tools I said you'd need when on the hunt for your treasure. The basic tools you'll need to arm yourself with are; a loop or magnifying glass, a cloth tape measure, and a good strong hand held flashlight/penlight. Also it's a good idea to carry a current price guide for reference, as there's a lot of dolls out there and unless you have a photographic memory, you'll never remember it all (at least until you've handled quite a few dolls).
Tomorrow, I'll walk through an examination of a doll and explain the process of selecting a doll.
Good Night!
Sunday, October 4, 2009
Qualities to consider when buying a Doll
Tonight, I will briefly discuss the qualities to consider before purchasing an antique or collectible doll. The first quality for me as I peruse a booth with several available dolls is which one appeals to me most, it's visual appeal. This is probably one of the individual and subjective qualities, but it is important, after all you have to like what you buy! Visual appeal, the elusive "something" that draws one to a doll, and tells you I'm the one for you. It could be the dress, the hair, the eyes, whatever it is you'll know.
The next quality is marks; fortunately most antique dolls, especially the bisque, are marked. Other types such as cloth or paper-mache, may or may not have a mark or label. Composition dolls and most modern dolls also have marks or labels. Madame Aleanders, for instance, have their hang-tags. Marks can tell you quite a bit about a doll, including the maker, trade names, country of origin, the mold number of the doll. The clothes can also be marked, so don't forget to look. The mark can tell one alot, but don't tell the whole story, you cannot buy a doll on the mark alone.
The next quality is Quality! You need to check how well the doll was made as well as any flaws in the manufacturing. Two dolls from the same company and same mold can vary drastically in quality. You need to check the complexion of bisque dolls, how well (or not) it was decorated, the eyes (I have seen cross-eyed dolls), the wig. Ask yourself is this the best doll of this type I've seen? Is the detail of the face sharp and crisp or flat and faint? The details are very important in certain types of dolls, such as dolls with molded hair or character faces. Some bisque when fired develops black spots (like pepper on snow), or blisters and bumps, some dolls painting is not quite right, these are qualities that make a doll a second choice not first quality. It is ok to accept a doll with minor manufacturing flaws, these are toys, and the manufacturer was in business to make a profit so some unperfect heads were sold, the price you pay should reflect this. Is the hair appropriate for the doll, a synthetic wig on an antique bisque doll is just not right, but on a 1950's vinyl it's expected. Antique dolls had wigs of human hair, mohair or sheep skin, if it's the old original wig, Great, but new and appropriate is acceptable. Also check the eyes, in antique dolls they should be glass, and have a natural appearance. The more fine qualities a doll meets the higher it's price will be, lower standards equal a lower price. Some dolls fall into the exceptional category, meeting and exceeding the qualities of a good doll, these are rare and will bring a premium price.
The clothing of a doll should also be appropriate for the type of doll. Old, original clothes are getting harder to come by as fabrics have a limited life, and each year it's life gets shorter. Old, worn and mended but appropriate clothes on an antique doll, even if not original to the doll, are better than new clothes. On modern dolls the story is a bit different, the clothes must be original, in order to bring a top price! Most manufacturers of modern dolls marked their clothes with a tag, but even when not so marked it is fairly easy to determine if the clothes are original factory made clothes. Sometimes on a modern doll the clothes are the only way to identify it, as many dolls were made using the same face molds.
A note on clothes, since these items are getting rarer, and more expensive, there are several dealers who specialize in just clothing and accessories for antique and collectible dolls. Another doll collecting category, if you like old textiles!
Condition is another factor to consider, not only the clothes but the body and especially the head. Bisque doll heads should be perfect and unrepaired to bring top price. A crack on the head, or a repaired head, especially if the face of the doll is involved drastically lowers the value. A small inconspicuos hairline on a common doll will lower the value also, but somewhat less. If the doll is rare, or very uncommon, a small hairline may not affect the value as much as it would in a more commonly found example. If it is a doll you desire and not commonly found, more collectors will accept a doll with a hairline, rather than not have the doll but the price must reflect that damage. Factory defects, if inconspicuous or hidden in the completed doll, such as firing cracks, kiln debris, bubbles or unsmoothed mold lines, have little to no affect on price. Wear such as nose or cheek rubs, a chip around an earring hole, or wig pulls on bisque dolls, china dolls may have hair scuffs, wood dolls may have scuffs, or worn paint, bodies may have worn joints or missing fingers/toes; remember these are play things and this type of wear is to be expected.
Ok, this is a lot to absorb, and we have more to cover, but I will stop here for now. Tomorrow will bring more in this discussion on dolls. If you are reading this discussion and have specific questions, or more clarification on a subject, please ask.
Good Night!
The next quality is marks; fortunately most antique dolls, especially the bisque, are marked. Other types such as cloth or paper-mache, may or may not have a mark or label. Composition dolls and most modern dolls also have marks or labels. Madame Aleanders, for instance, have their hang-tags. Marks can tell you quite a bit about a doll, including the maker, trade names, country of origin, the mold number of the doll. The clothes can also be marked, so don't forget to look. The mark can tell one alot, but don't tell the whole story, you cannot buy a doll on the mark alone.
The next quality is Quality! You need to check how well the doll was made as well as any flaws in the manufacturing. Two dolls from the same company and same mold can vary drastically in quality. You need to check the complexion of bisque dolls, how well (or not) it was decorated, the eyes (I have seen cross-eyed dolls), the wig. Ask yourself is this the best doll of this type I've seen? Is the detail of the face sharp and crisp or flat and faint? The details are very important in certain types of dolls, such as dolls with molded hair or character faces. Some bisque when fired develops black spots (like pepper on snow), or blisters and bumps, some dolls painting is not quite right, these are qualities that make a doll a second choice not first quality. It is ok to accept a doll with minor manufacturing flaws, these are toys, and the manufacturer was in business to make a profit so some unperfect heads were sold, the price you pay should reflect this. Is the hair appropriate for the doll, a synthetic wig on an antique bisque doll is just not right, but on a 1950's vinyl it's expected. Antique dolls had wigs of human hair, mohair or sheep skin, if it's the old original wig, Great, but new and appropriate is acceptable. Also check the eyes, in antique dolls they should be glass, and have a natural appearance. The more fine qualities a doll meets the higher it's price will be, lower standards equal a lower price. Some dolls fall into the exceptional category, meeting and exceeding the qualities of a good doll, these are rare and will bring a premium price.
The clothing of a doll should also be appropriate for the type of doll. Old, original clothes are getting harder to come by as fabrics have a limited life, and each year it's life gets shorter. Old, worn and mended but appropriate clothes on an antique doll, even if not original to the doll, are better than new clothes. On modern dolls the story is a bit different, the clothes must be original, in order to bring a top price! Most manufacturers of modern dolls marked their clothes with a tag, but even when not so marked it is fairly easy to determine if the clothes are original factory made clothes. Sometimes on a modern doll the clothes are the only way to identify it, as many dolls were made using the same face molds.
A note on clothes, since these items are getting rarer, and more expensive, there are several dealers who specialize in just clothing and accessories for antique and collectible dolls. Another doll collecting category, if you like old textiles!
Condition is another factor to consider, not only the clothes but the body and especially the head. Bisque doll heads should be perfect and unrepaired to bring top price. A crack on the head, or a repaired head, especially if the face of the doll is involved drastically lowers the value. A small inconspicuos hairline on a common doll will lower the value also, but somewhat less. If the doll is rare, or very uncommon, a small hairline may not affect the value as much as it would in a more commonly found example. If it is a doll you desire and not commonly found, more collectors will accept a doll with a hairline, rather than not have the doll but the price must reflect that damage. Factory defects, if inconspicuous or hidden in the completed doll, such as firing cracks, kiln debris, bubbles or unsmoothed mold lines, have little to no affect on price. Wear such as nose or cheek rubs, a chip around an earring hole, or wig pulls on bisque dolls, china dolls may have hair scuffs, wood dolls may have scuffs, or worn paint, bodies may have worn joints or missing fingers/toes; remember these are play things and this type of wear is to be expected.
Ok, this is a lot to absorb, and we have more to cover, but I will stop here for now. Tomorrow will bring more in this discussion on dolls. If you are reading this discussion and have specific questions, or more clarification on a subject, please ask.
Good Night!
Friday, October 2, 2009
Starting at the beginning....
Well I missed an entry yesterday, the 9 to 5 had kept me up to late for a few nights in a row so I crashed early. I had to get up early today to take care of loose ends at work, got those straightened out so I have my weekend free for other things I need to do around the house and for my other love antiques and collectibles.
This will be a short installment tonight but I want to set the stage for the next few entries.
When I first started in antiques I picked a item I liked: antique dolls (turns out a lot of the top dealers and collectors are men!). My older sister, mother and younger sister were collecting Madame Alexander at that time. Well, really it was my older sister first, our mother had bought her one doll at each birthday from the time she was little, so she had a few, then she started collecting when she had money of her own. This sparked my mother and younger sister to "help" my older sister locate dolls for her collection and at the same time started their own collections. I didn't particularly like the Alexanders as the faces all looked kind of the same and I saw them everywhere. Don't get me wrong, they are a good collectible doll, just not what I liked.
I leaned more toward the bisque dolls, I especially like the French Fashion dolls and the Googlies (think wide round eyes, and impish grins). The bisque dolls while not particularly rare as a category are also not common fare at flea markets and general line shows, but they can be found. They tend to be more expensive due this and their respective popularity.
These dolls (and all dolls) take a bit of learning before buying as there are many things to look for and factors to consider before laying out several hundred dollars minimun for a doll. Some of these go for thousands. Just recently a doll sold for $175,000.00! (more about that one later).
Over the next few entries I will cover what qualities to look for in a doll, and what tools you'll need when shopping for a doll. I bet you didn't know you'd need tools!
Till the next time, Good Night!
This will be a short installment tonight but I want to set the stage for the next few entries.
When I first started in antiques I picked a item I liked: antique dolls (turns out a lot of the top dealers and collectors are men!). My older sister, mother and younger sister were collecting Madame Alexander at that time. Well, really it was my older sister first, our mother had bought her one doll at each birthday from the time she was little, so she had a few, then she started collecting when she had money of her own. This sparked my mother and younger sister to "help" my older sister locate dolls for her collection and at the same time started their own collections. I didn't particularly like the Alexanders as the faces all looked kind of the same and I saw them everywhere. Don't get me wrong, they are a good collectible doll, just not what I liked.
I leaned more toward the bisque dolls, I especially like the French Fashion dolls and the Googlies (think wide round eyes, and impish grins). The bisque dolls while not particularly rare as a category are also not common fare at flea markets and general line shows, but they can be found. They tend to be more expensive due this and their respective popularity.
These dolls (and all dolls) take a bit of learning before buying as there are many things to look for and factors to consider before laying out several hundred dollars minimun for a doll. Some of these go for thousands. Just recently a doll sold for $175,000.00! (more about that one later).
Over the next few entries I will cover what qualities to look for in a doll, and what tools you'll need when shopping for a doll. I bet you didn't know you'd need tools!
Till the next time, Good Night!
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